Thursday, June 01, 2006

I will get to the rest of Machu Picchu in soon. Let's just say it got better from there.

I am now in Buenos Aires. Not Buenos "Fucking" Aires, like those stupid t-shirts those even stupid-er tourists, usually Commonwealth for the record, tend to wear.

This is the real deal: A Latin city of European memories. The home of Borges, Tango, great steaks, late nights, great architecture, countless cafes, beautiful women, and the timeless flavor of urbane romanticism.

I have been here three days, and I already have a packed social calendar (not to brag, but it does feel good) AND I have a non-hostal place to live.

So things are good. I do happen to have a hacking-cough chest infection, but nothing is perfect, and thanks to certain people before us, I have anti-biotics working away as I type.

My new homebase is slightly out of the center, in the comically underfurnished in that "just-moved-in-young-heterosexual-bachelor" kind of way, apartment of Latin wunderkind Ricardo Arnold.

We met in Mendoza, three months ago, in a hostal defined by heavy beer consumption, nonstop soccer, even more nonstop loud music., and the worst matresses in South America. I think this place was like a hospice for Foam Rubber, the place the sad, terminal cases went to die.

Which Andino Hostal turned around and sold for 27 pesos a night, to bask in slumber to the lulling sounds of yelling drunks, and that Jay-Z cover of "It´s a hard knock life" I now hate after having to listen to the flighty hipster who worked at the desk blare it over the sound system every 45 minutes (not exaggerating).

But it was all worth it, if nothing else to meet Ricardo. He is so my kind of guy. Really nice, smart, fun, great taste, and easygoing. He also has one of those Argi-mullets so popular in this country which I find hilariously authenticating-he is DEFINITELY Argentine- and hilarious. I introduced him to my German friend Susanne who I met on a sleepy day-after-my-birthday morning in El Calafate. She came to to Mendoza to meet me, I introduced them, and after a week of being super nice and shy, sparks flew.

Also noteworthy is that they are both really tall. I think that helped with the chemistry.

That being said, his generosity far outweighs anything I ever did for him. So let's learn more about the admirable Ricardo:

At 26 he works full time (45 hours a week) while going to school at night in BA, so he stays with his mom in the city during the week-hey, she cooks and cleans, and it is not like he has any time to impress the chicks during the week- and only really uses the place on the weekends. For predictable reasons.

Thus, the first order of business is to wash the sheets.

Then, put something in the fridge.

Current Refriferator contents: Beer, water, coke, fernet (goes with the coke, it's huge in Argentina), and champagne.

The Bachelor late night date special. Like I said, apartment only used for predictable reasons.

Living Room Contents: Disconnected TV on the floor, boombox, phone table with phone, yellow pages, take-out sushi menu and unused chopsticks and napkin from last order. Next to phone: a glass half full with coke and cigarette butts.

At least it keeps the smell down.

Bathroom: one towel, soap, shampoo, razors, shaving cream, TP, Bathtub (awesome), bidet (charming), a box of condoms, and four types of cologne.

Again, to keep the smell down.

Bedroom: Queen Size Bed, sheets that are about to be washed, blankets, empty closets, uncnnected tangle of TV cable sprouting from wall.

The good news is that I can offer him some obviously needed decorating and re-arranging help, and it is really close to a busline that runs constantly AND a train station, with service to the center of the city.

Oh yeah, did I mention it was free?

I also got a celphone: 115-348-1652, if you are calling internationally add a 00549 in front.

So another level of semi-permanence has been achieved, all set in place to enable the writing, laughing, wandering, socializing, reading, maybe dancing or cooking classes, not-having-to-show-up-for-work joyous lifestyle of the next month of my life.

I can imagine what you are thinking. Really, try not to spit on your monitor as you curse me and my current lifestyle.

Ciao for now,


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